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March · a note from the kitchen

Six Miles

Everything green on the current menu came from within six miles of this room, which sounds like a boast and is mostly an accident of who happens to farm here.

A close view of linen, a glass and a candle on a dark table

We did not set out with a radius. We set out with a list of people we liked dealing with, and it turned out most of them were close, because the ones who are far away are mostly the ones who are big.

The wild garlic is the honest exception. It comes from the lane behind the pub and it is picked by whichever of us is least busy at four o'clock, which is a supply chain in the same way that a puddle is a reservoir.

This Month

Hogget and lambBallyfin, 4 mi

Plaice, brill, whatever the boat hasKilcarn pier, 1 mi

Chicory, turnip, forced rhubarbNendrum, 6 mi

Ewe's curd and the three cheesesAughrim, 5 mi

Wild garlicThe lane, 40 yards

In August this list will be shorter and the menu will be worse for a fortnight. We will not fill the gap with something flown in; we will just cook less.

The kitchen