Twelve things we actually use

Salted, in oil, 95 g. Firm enough to fillet cleanly and salty enough that you use fewer.

Used inBeans and burnt butter · Bitter leaves · The only dressing · four others

500 g. Last year's crop, which soaks in six hours rather than twelve and holds its shape.

Used inBeans and burnt butter · White beans, rosemary, chilli · Bean and bread soup

1 kg. The grade that gives the cake its texture; fine semolina makes a different and worse cake.

Used inSemolina cake · Fried semolina · Pasta, hand rolled

500 ml. Aged in oak, which is why it does not need sugar to taste round.

Used inThe only dressing · Bitter leaves · Braised fennel · six others